Obedience
With the default firmware, Obedience is a simple four channel 1v/oct quantizer with track/sample and hold. Choose between free running or track and hold mode and set the musical scale to one of 16. If you don't like the default scales, a few more are hiding in the firmware and additional ones are trivial to add. Four LEDs display a binary code indicating the current scale. The default scale list includes chromatic, all diatonic modes, major and minor pentatonic, blues, harmonic minor, Arabian, whole tone, 24 tone equal temperament and 22 shruti.
A number of features are provided for the easiest possible tuning experience. On the front panel there are sets of conductive pads and the screws for the cermet trim pots. This allows you to test the exact output voltage and adjust with the module in situ. Additionally, all inputs are normalled to 5v instead of ground, so "tuning mode" is achieved by simply having no inputs patched. Once you have assembled and checked your module for shorts and other mistakes, power it on and touch your multimeter set to 20v DC range black lead to the ground pad and red lead to each numbered pad. Adjust the corresponding numbered screw until the multimeter reads 5.000v. Then you're ready to patch away!
With the default firmware, Obedience is a simple four channel 1v/oct quantizer with track/sample and hold. Choose between free running or track and hold mode and set the musical scale to one of 16. If you don't like the default scales, a few more are hiding in the firmware and additional ones are trivial to add. Four LEDs display a binary code indicating the current scale. The default scale list includes chromatic, all diatonic modes, major and minor pentatonic, blues, harmonic minor, Arabian, whole tone, 24 tone equal temperament and 22 shruti.
A number of features are provided for the easiest possible tuning experience. On the front panel there are sets of conductive pads and the screws for the cermet trim pots. This allows you to test the exact output voltage and adjust with the module in situ. Additionally, all inputs are normalled to 5v instead of ground, so "tuning mode" is achieved by simply having no inputs patched. Once you have assembled and checked your module for shorts and other mistakes, power it on and touch your multimeter set to 20v DC range black lead to the ground pad and red lead to each numbered pad. Adjust the corresponding numbered screw until the multimeter reads 5.000v. Then you're ready to patch away!
The DAC is arguably the most important part of any quantizer, and so we've chosen a nice four channel 12 bit DAC - the MCP4728. It is however only available in MSOP package - much smaller than we would want you to have to deal with. As such there are provisions on board to install either an Adafruit MCP4728 breakout board (Adafruit #4470) with pin headers, or if you're comfortable with the tiny package you can save a few bucks and install a lone MCP4728 IC and its associated 100nF decoupling cap and 2x 10k pull up resistors. If you go with the Adafruit board, you do not need to install the capacitor and 2 resistors as they are done for you.
The DAC is arguably the most important part of any quantizer, and so we've chosen a nice four channel 12 bit DAC - the MCP4728. It is however only available in MSOP package - much smaller than we would want you to have to deal with. As such there are provisions on board to install either an Adafruit MCP4728 breakout board (Adafruit #4470) with pin headers, or if you're comfortable with the tiny package you can save a few bucks and install a lone MCP4728 IC and its associated 100nF decoupling cap and 2x 10k pull up resistors. If you go with the Adafruit board, you do not need to install the capacitor and 2 resistors as they are done for you.
For the Arduino Nano you can either solder it down permanently or of course install pin headers to make it removable. And for the remainder of the components go with the normal Sentient Synths varieties. All resistors and capacitors are 0805. LL4148 diodes, and a standard SOIC TL074.
For the Arduino Nano you can either solder it down permanently or of course install pin headers to make it removable. And for the remainder of the components go with the normal Sentient Synths varieties. All resistors and capacitors are 0805. LL4148 diodes, and a standard SOIC TL074.
When building the module, always start with the lowest and smallest components first. So resistors and capacitors, then ICs and diodes. Next install the board connecting pin headers, power header and if applicable Arduino and DAC pin headers. Finally move up to the front panel by installing the switches, I/O jacks, trim pots and LEDs. This module has a unique feature in that the front panel does actually connect to the circuitry so save your LED legs. When installing the front panel components always solder with the faceplate in place for alignment. Solder just one leg on each component and check its alignment before fully soldering it down. After all other components have been installed, solder one LED leg to each of the 6 pads on the bottom side of the faceplate. Taking care not to poke yourself as they are sharp, make sure they are pointing straight up and fit the upper board to the faceplate, guiding all of the controls and the new faceplate pad risers through their respective holes. Install the nuts on the jacks and switches and solder down the faceplate pad risers to the back of the upper board. Connect the lower and upper boards and finally install your coded Arduino and DAC breakout board if applicable.
When building the module, always start with the lowest and smallest components first. So resistors and capacitors, then ICs and diodes. Next install the board connecting pin headers, power header and if applicable Arduino and DAC pin headers. Finally move up to the front panel by installing the switches, I/O jacks, trim pots and LEDs. This module has a unique feature in that the front panel does actually connect to the circuitry so save your LED legs. When installing the front panel components always solder with the faceplate in place for alignment. Solder just one leg on each component and check its alignment before fully soldering it down. After all other components have been installed, solder one LED leg to each of the 6 pads on the bottom side of the faceplate. Taking care not to poke yourself as they are sharp, make sure they are pointing straight up and fit the upper board to the faceplate, guiding all of the controls and the new faceplate pad risers through their respective holes. Install the nuts on the jacks and switches and solder down the faceplate pad risers to the back of the upper board. Connect the lower and upper boards and finally install your coded Arduino and DAC breakout board if applicable.
You can find the default code here [LINK TO GITHUB AFTER TESTING]. If you come up with improvements to the code or an alternate firmware and you want to share it, we would be happy to list it here! Tell us about it at sentientsynths@gmail.com
You can find the default code here [LINK TO GITHUB AFTER TESTING]. If you come up with improvements to the code or an alternate firmware and you want to share it, we would be happy to list it here! Tell us about it at sentientsynths@gmail.com
